As photographers, our job is so much more than taking beautiful images of our clients. Our clients look to us to provide them with assistance in every step of the photographic process, from booking the session to the delivery of the final images. But what about the in between? There is a lot of planning and prep that happens after booking and before the sale. Many of us get the question, “What do I wear?” and while I do believe wardrobe choice is very important, another, often overlooked, significant factor in a successful session is styling and makeup. Styling and makeup are often something the client doesn’t think of until the day of the session but these two factors can make or break the entire session. It is our job as photographers to educate our clients about these details just as we would about location selection or wardrobe choices. Whether you are shooting a high school senior, a bride to be, an expectant mother, or a mother of three, preparing your client for their photo shoot by educating them about their makeup shouldn’t be an after-thought. Instead, it should be something we help them with so they have a great experience with us, feel terrific at their session, and look fantastic in their final images.
I am a photographer, licensed M.A.C Pro makeup artist, and a self professed makeup junkie. Professional makeup is included with my senior portrait sessions but not every photographer does this and that is okay! Just because you are not providing the service doesn’t mean you can’t give your clients expert guidance. As a side note, I do not include makeup with my engagement or wedding sessions and I am going to share the tips I give to those clients.
First and foremost I always encourage my clients to use a professional makeup artist or book one of my sessions that includes hair and makeup. I do this for one of many reasons. The most important reason I suggest a pro makeup application is because a pro knows how to apply makeup for the camera. A pro gets a perfect foundation color to match the skin tone and can select the right colors to make the clients features pop! A pro knows how to contour to bring out the right amount of shadow or highlight. Another major reason a professional artist is a great investment is because the client comes to the session feeling very confident about her look, and we all know there is nothing easier to photograph than a client that feels great about themselves!
If a professional makeup application isn’t something the client wants to invest in I share the following tips with them so they can easily create a camera ready look on their own.
1. Be sure to start with a clean and moisturized face; nothing is prettier than beautiful skin!
2. Apply your makeup in natural window light if at all possible. This may mean applying your makeup in a room other than your bathroom but good lighting is essential to a good, even application of makeup.
3. A good primer is just as important as a good foundation. Use primer before applying your base to give a smooth canvas by concealing large pores, uneven color and texture, and fine lines. M.A.C. Prep and Prime, Benefit That Gal Brightening Face Primer, Benefit Porefessional (my personal favorite!), Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer, Makeup For Ever’s HD Microperfecting Primer, Rimmel Fix Perfect Primer, or L’Oreal’s Studio Secrets Professional Secret No.1 Magic Perfecting Base are all great primers to use under your foundation.
4. Please stay away from using mineral makeup for your portraits. Mineral Makeup is fantastic for everyday wear; however, in portraits it can give a very distinct and undesirable glow or shine. Revlon’s Colorstay Makeup is my favorite drugstore option while M.A.C. Studio Fix and Make Up For Ever’s HD Invisible Cover Foundation are great high end options. In portraits, a matte finish is more desirable than a glow. When applying your foundation it is best to use a damp sponge or foundation brush rather than wiping your foundation on your skin with your hands to avoid uneven coverage or streaking (this also cuts back on the spread of germs). I use a foundation brush and the Beauty Blender sponge.
5. Set your foundation with a translucent matte powder banishing any shine. My favorite is M.A.C Prep and Prime Transparent Finishing Powder while another great option is Revlon Photo Ready Translucent Finisher.
6. Play up your eyes! Again, avoid shimmer or glitter. I strongly suggest using matte or satin neutral shades to bring out your beautiful eyes. Trendy or dark colors can cause your images to look dated and your eyes to look small or garish. Almost every makeup company offers pallets that can give you a natural look for your eyes. A golden brown really plays up any eye color. Almay Intense I-Color comes customized for your eye color and can take the guess work out of picking the right shade. Be sure to blend the color for the most flattering look.
7. When it comes to applying eyeliner, in many ways less can be more. I suggest lining brown or black brown eyeliner, being careful not to line the inner rim too heavily as this will create a small looking eye. It is best to just line the lash line creating a full looking lash.
8. Don’t forget mascara! I suggest waterproof (aka sweatproof) black mascara. Two coats. Using a new mascara tube can really be helpful because the product will not be dried out causing you to have clumpy lashes. Be sure to wipe off any excess mascara on the tube before your application.
9. When selecting a blush color, choose a shade that resembles the flush you have after exercise or laughter. Again, stay away from glittery or shimmery shades for your portraits. Almost every woman I know is afraid of blush but when applied correctly it expertly enhances your look. Apply the most vibrant part of your blush on the apples (where you smile) of your cheeks and blend upward on your cheek bone. Blush needs to be applied a bit heavier than normal for portraits because the camera has a tendency to wash out the color. After applying your blush take a large fluffy brush with no product and blend once more for the most natural finish.
10. A naturally colored lip is the most flattering in portraits because lip color trends change so quickly. One of my favorite ways to keep the lip natural is to use a neutral colored lip pencil (my favorite is M.A.C spice but almost every cosmetics company makes a neutral shade) and line and fill in the lip. I then apply a blush colored gloss lightly over the lip concentrating the application in the center and blending out toward the corners of the mouth (again, less is more). If you prefer lipstick choose a color that enhances your existing lip tone. One of my all around favorites is M.A.C Honey Love but another all around favorite is Smashbox Primrose.
11. When you are completely finished with your look, give a final dusting of translucent powder lightly over your entire face to set the look.
Well applied makeup offers a multitude of benefits to you as a photographer. With the right guidance you can give your clients the confidence to prepare their look that is all their own and you can save yourself a lot of time in post processing.